Towns & Villages
Beaumont
Beaumont is a small town approximately 18 kilometres from Le Mas. It has a large church that is worth visiting as part of a tour of surrounding churches and abbeys (along with Montferand, St. Avit Riviere, Cadouin and Belves). It has a supermarket and a petrol station just out of town on the road to Monpazier. The town has an excellent ironmongers on the narrow road straight from the village square (in case you need emergency supplies).
Markets are held in the main square on Wednesdays and Saturdays.
Belvès
Belvès is approximately 11½ kilometres from Le Mas. It is a beautiful town perched on a hilltop and quite distinct from other surrounding towns with its beautiful faded ochre colours and turrets, perhaps more reminiscent of town in Umbria. The view from the bypass around the town is particularly spectacular.
Belvès has a supermarket, a selection of bread shops and butchers, several small bars, a weekly market (held on Saturday) and an outdoor swimming pool and tennis courts.
On the main road below Belves, on the junction with the back road to Domme, is a very good restaurant – Auberge de la Nauze.
Cadouin
Cadouin is a beautiful, valley village about 14 kilometres from Le Mas. Cadouin is famous for its cloistered medieval Abbey which was home for many years to one of the shrouds of Christ. The main square has a couple of good bar-restaurants with outdoor seating and there are a number of interesting galleries and atelier in the adjoining square.
Domme
Domme is a stunning, walled, medieval town located on top of a steep hill overlooking the Dordogne valley and the mighty Dordogne River. On a clear day the views are breathtaking. During the summer time it is full of tourists but don’t let that put you off visiting, especially if you combine it with lunch at L’Esplanade (see the food section) which is situated on the cliff edge with fantastic views from its terrace. Be sure to eat outside if the weather is good or ask for a window table if not.
Issigeac
Issigeac is a pretty medieval town on our preferred route to Bergerac via Villereal. The stroll through the main square, church and adjoining streets is worth a visit especially during the busy Sunday market. Issigeac has two good restaurants: L’Atelier and La Brucelière.
Les Eyzies
Les Eyzies is home to some of the most significant archaeological finds (see the history section). It is an attractive, if a little too touristy, village at the foot of sheer cliffs. There is a Michelin rosetted restaurant here – which we have yet to visit!
Not far from here is the wonderful Chateau de Commarque. Another must see!
Monflanquin
Monflanquin is a hilltop bastide town on the way to Villeneuve-sur-Lot. It has a fine, unusually sloping central square with several bars and restaurants. Our favourite is Le Jardin in the top corner.
Montferand du Perigord
A rural medieval hamlet on a hillside off the road between Beaumont and Cadouin. Lovely but very quiet with no shops, cafes or bars.
There is a very pretty little 11th century chapel (St.Christophe) sign-posted about a kilometre from the top of the road through the hamlet… It has amazing wall-paintings and is well worth a visit!
Monpazier
Monpazier is just under 7km from Le Mas. It has a small supermarket, two bakers, two butchers, a bank and post office, as well as an interesting selection of shops selling clothing, pottery and other arts and crafts. A weekly market takes place in the square every Thursday, and antique fairs and other events are held throughout the summer. The splendid church is a regular venue for touring musical events throughout the summer season. There is a 4-star boutique hotel, Château Hotel Edward 1er, and a number of good restaurants:
In an area full of stunning medieval towns, in our view, Monpazier is the prettiest of them all. It was founded in 1284 by Edward I, King of England and the Duke of Aquitaine. The town is laid out to a strict geometric plan and the magnificent market square is among the loveliest of its kind in France.
Monpazier has its own website at monpazier.fr and the splendid local museum offers ‘Un voyage au cœur d’une ville médiévale’ via its excellent website at bastideum.fr.
Sarlat-la-Caneda
Known simply as Sarlat, this lovely Renaissance town grew up around a Benedictine abbey founded in the 9th century. Caught between French and English territory, it was almost left in ruins during the Hundred Years War and again during the Wars of Religion. Despite this, Sarlat retains a distinctive medieval flavour with its honey-coloured sandstone buildings and enticing streets. On Saturdays there is an excellent market. Depending on the season, foie gras, mushrooms, truffles, wonderful vegetables, breads and other delicious fayre are traded among a racket and press of vendors and visitors. Sarlat is definitely worth a visit. If you want to avoid the crowds, it is best to go during the week but if you want to catch the market and get a parking place…. go early.
A few kilometres north west of Sarlat is Chateau du Puymartin.
Siorac-en-Perigord
One of our most convenient supermarkets is the Carrefour in Siorac. There is also a pharmacy and two nine-hole golf courses!
Villereal
Villereal is, along with Monpazier, one of the best preserved bastide towns in the region. It is an attractive town and worth a stop for coffee if you are traveling south. Le Moderne on the square is good spot for a coffee or a light lunch. There is an excellent cheese and wine shop next door and a small Carrefour nearby. The largest supermarket in the whole area, an Intermarché, is just out of town on the Castillones Road. And there’s a very handy DIY store just next door to the Intermarché.