Food and Wine
If you like food and wine you have definitely come to the right department. The Dordogne offers rich and varied cuisine of the highest standard. Regional specialities include foie gras, walnuts (used in Gâteaux and Pain aux Noix), strawberries, truffles and of course a wide selection of wine from the nearby Bergerac vineyards as well as from Bordeaux and Cahors. Duck is a regular feature on menus (Confit or Magret de Canard) and the Perigord cuisine often favours the use of duck and goose fat over butter, giving dishes such as roast potatoes a particular and delicious taste.
Vineyards
Our favourites in the area include:
- Château Jaubertie: Lovely whites & rosés from Colombier, just off N21, south of Monbazillac.
- Château Ladesvignes: Good whites from Pomport on the D17, running north towards Bergerac.
- Domaine de Tariquet: Their Côtéd de Gascogne is a cracking 50:50 blend of Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc
- Château Champerel: A robust and delicious Percharmant red. A blend of Merlot, Malbec, Cab Sav and Franc.
- Les Verdots: We especially like their excellent whites
- Château La Coustarelle: A wonderful Cahors red made from Malbec and Merlot grapes
There are, of course, many other fine vineyards further west, towards Bordeaux… especially in and around the beautiful town of Saint-Émilion with its 800-900 amazing wine-growers.
In Vino Veritas at 53, rue Notre-Dame in Monpazier is our current favourite shop for wine purchasing. The owner, David Roche has a great selection of excellent ‘drink-now’ wines. He particularly recommends the very quaffable Horgelus Colombard-Sauvignon Blanc and the even more palatable Côtes de Gascogne Rosé. He also has several excellent Percharmant reds.
For more information about wine and vineyards in the region visit www.pays-de-bergerac.com.
Eating Out
As would be expected, there are a wide selection of very good restaurants in the region, many providing excellent value for money. Below we have listed a variety of restaurants we have tried and enjoyed. Happy eating! To avoid disappointment, in season and at weekends, you are generally advised to phone and book restaurants in advance. All restaurants welcome kids and you can wear what you like (within the bounds of decency), even in the smart places.
Monpazier:
Privilège du Périgord (05 53 22 43 98)
Our favourite in town is this small restaurant on Rue Notre Dame, on the left as you come through the archway. There is a pretty creeper-walled courtyard where you can dine outside. Excellent regional cuisine.
Bistrot 2 (05 53 22 60 64)
Situated on Place Foirail Nord just outside the archways leading into the town, this is a lovely place for lunch or supper with shaded dining under the wisteria hung terrace.
La Bastide (05 53 22 60 59)
On Rue St Jacques, as you come through the right hand archway, it is on your left hand side. Slightly smarter restaurant but generally good food.
Eleanor at Hotel Edward 1er (05 53 22 44 00)
The smartest hotel in Monpazier also serves lunch and dinner for non-residents. Lunch is a selection from twelve small dishes from the region and further afield. Dinner is a rather grander affair with a ‘Menu Gastronomique’. Reservations are only accepted on the day.
Biere de la Bastide (05 53 27 72 49)
Opened a few years ago by Hugh & Denise Davies, this English beer brewery/bar/brasserie has become the sensation of Monpazier and can be very popular on special music nights.
Cadouin:
Villa Marguerite (06 16 10 34 99) This is our most recent and much-loved discovery. In a beautiful house on the way into town, this restaurant with rooms is run by the lovely Caroline and Florence. With tables outside, they serve very creative vegetarian and fish dishes only, and an excellent but small wine selection.
Belvès:
Planches e Plonk (05 53 28 21 70)
In this award-winning wine bar, found down the main, pedestrian street of Belvès, owners, Graham and Damon serve a wonderful selection of carefully selected charcuterie and cheeses accompanied by excellent wine recommendations. a pizzeria, this place has a terrace with a lovely view over the road
Auberge De La Nauze (05 53 28 44 81)
A very pleasant family run restaurant at Sagelat on the road below Belves by the crossroads between the roads to Siorac & Domme. Newly restored with pine ceilings and big windows looking out onto pleasant grounds with stream (and car-park). Great food though service can be slow.
Le Parfum de Mets (05 53 59 60 34)
Once just a pizzeria, this place has upgraded to fine(r) dining in the last few years and has acquired a good reputation. The terrace offers beautiful views to the valleys beyond.
Les Terrasses de Belvès (05 53 28 25 48)
This charming terrace restaurant sits below the road on far side of the town. Serving simple but very fresh and delicious salads, pasta dishes and desserts, this is a good spot to relax after a trek round the town or after one of its market days.
Villereal:
La Table de l’Europe (05.53.36.00.35)
This is a comfortable, rather smart, Guide Michelin recommended restaurant
Issigeac:
L’Atelier (05 53 23 49 78)
Opened in December 2017, where Chez Alain used to be, this new venture is off to a great start. The owners are English and the young French chef is already receiving good reviews.
La Brucelière (05 53 73 89 61)
Situated on the first roundabout as you arrive from Villereal, this place gets good plaudits from Michelin and other food guides
Monbazillac:
La Tour Des Vents (05 53 58 .30 10)
Situated by the Moulin de Malfourat near Monbazillac and with wonderful views overlooking Bergerac, this Michelin starred restaurant is our local favourite. Ask to eat outside on the terrace on sunny days or by the window if not.
Domme:
L’Esplanade (05 53 28 31 41)
A stunningly situated, previously Michelin-rosetted hotel and restaurant on the edge of a cliff top village overlooking the Dordogne valley. Best for lunch on a nice day. Ask for a table on the terrace and enjoy the fabulous view. Good rather fancy food in elegant but friendly surroundings. The village is well worth a browse, although a bit touristy.
For more restaurants in the Monpazier area try pays-des-bastides.com.