Out and About: Food and Wine
If you like food and wine you have definitely come to the right department. The Dordogne offers rich and varied cuisine of the highest standard. Regional specialities include foie gras, walnuts (used in Gâteaux and Pain aux Noix), strawberries, truffles and of course a wide selection of wine from the nearby Bergerac vineyards as well as from Bordeaux and Cahors. Duck is a regular feature on menus (Confit or Magret de Canard) and the Perigord cuisine often favours the use of duck and goose fat over butter, giving dishes such as roast potatoes a particular, and delicious, taste.
Our favourites in the area include:
- Château Jaubertie: Lovely whites & rosés from Colombier, just off N21, south of Monbazillac.
- Château Ladesvignes: Good whites from Pompot on the D17, running north towards Bergerac.
- Domaine de Tariquet: Their Côté is a cracking 50:50 blend of Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc
- Château Champerel: A robust Percharmant red. A blend of Merlot, Malbec, Cab Sav and Franc.
- Château La Coustarelle: A wonderful Cahors red made from Malbec and Merlot grapes
There are of course many other fine vineyards further west, towards Bordeaux.
For more information about wine and vineyards in the region visit www.pays-de-bergerac.com.
As would be expected, there are a wide selection of very good restaurants in the region, many providing excellent value for money. Below we have listed a variety of restaurants we have tried and enjoyed. Happy eating! To avoid disappointment, in season and at weekends, you are generally advised to phone and book restaurants in advance. All restaurants welcome kids and you can wear what you like (within the bounds of decency), even in the smart places.
Privilège du Périgord (05 53 22 43 98)
A small restaurant on Rue Notre Dame, on the left as you come through the arch. The restaurant is run by a woman artist & her chef husband. There is a pretty creeper-walled courtyard where you can dine outside. Basic regional cuisine and good value for money.
Bistrot 2 (05 53 22 60 64)
Situated on Place Foirail Nord just outside the archways leading into the town, this is a lovely place for lunch or supper with shaded dining under the wisteria hung terrace.
La Bastide (05 53 22 60 59)
On Rue St Jacques, as you come through the right hand arch it is on your left hand side. Slightly smarter restaurant. A rather dark interior but generally good food.
Eleanor at Hotel Edward 1er (05 53 22 44 00)
The smartest hotel in Monpazier also serves lunch and dinner for non-residents. Lunch is a selection from twelve small dishes from the region and further afield. Dinner is a rather grander affair with a ‘Menu Gastronomique’ and reservations are only accepted on the day.
Biere de la Bastide (05 53 27 72 49)
Opened just a few years ago by Hugh & Denise Davies, this English beer brewery/bar/brasserie has become the sensation of Monpazier and can be very popular on special music nights.
La Table de Léo (05 64 28 58 99)
This little restaurant in Saint-Avit-Senieur (about 20 minutes away) only opened in 2015 and already is getting rave reviews from everyone who eats there and is acclaimed in both Trip Advisor and the Guide Michelin. Well worth a visit, but you must book as it is very popular and does not have many tables. Closed on Mondays and Wednesdays and Sunday evenings.
Auberge De La Nauze (05 53 28 44 81) at Sagelat below Belves
A very pleasant family run restaurant on the road below Belves, on the crossroads between the roads to Siorac & Domme. Newly restored with pine ceilings and big windows looking out onto pleasant grounds with stream (and car-park). Great food though service can be slow.
Le Parfum de Mets (05 53 59 60 34)
Essentially a pizzeria, this place has a terrace with a lovely view over the road to the valleys beyond. The pizzas are wafer thin and really good.
Les Terrasses de Belvès (05 53 28 25 48)
This charming terrace restaurant sits below the road on far side of the town. Serving simple but very fresh and delicious salads, pasta dishes and desserts, this is a good spot to relax after a trek round the town or after one of its market days.
L’Atelier (05 53 23 49 78)
Opened in December 2017, where Chez Alain used to be, this new ventureis off to a great start. The owners are English and the young French chef is already receiving good reviews.
La Brucelière (05 53 73 89 61)
Situated on the first roundabout as you arrive from Villereal, this place gets good plaudits from Michelin and other food guides
Relais de l’Ancienne Gare (05 53 58 70 29)
On the Eymet road out of town, this homely place serves excellent good-value food.
La Gentilhommière Etincelles (05 53 74 08 79)
Michelin-starred restaurant with rooms in a tiny hamlet between Issigeac and Beaumont. The chef Vincent Lucas has gained a great reputation for season-fresh single menu dining. Fabulous.
La Tour Des Vents (05 53 58 .30 10)
Situated by the Moulin de Malfourat near Monbazillac and with wonderful views overlooking Bergerac, this Michelin starred restaurant is our local favourite. Ask to eat outside on the terrace on sunny days or by the window if not.
L’Esplanade (05 53 28 31 41)
A stunningly situated, previously Michelin-rosetted hotel and restaurant on the edge of a cliff top village overlooking the Dordogne valley. Best for lunch on a nice day. Ask for a table on the terrace and enjoy the fabulous view. Good food, rather fancy food in elegant but friendly surroundings. The village is well worth a browse, although a bit touristy.
For more restaurants in the Monpazier area try pays-des-bastides.com.